2015 Israel & Morocco Trip No. 5: Last Day in Jerusalem Part 2: Via Dolorosa, the Road of Sorrow

Israel and Morocco Travel 2015 GW
Israel and Morocco Travel 2015 GW

Date of visit: afternoon of April 26, 2015

Via Dolorosa” is an important road of sorrow in the sightseeing of Jerusalem, I walked a little on the first day, but this day again.

“The Way of Sorrow” again.

We descended the Mount of Olives and went back to the Old City of Jerusalem.

一番東側にあるライオン門(上の写真)をくぐり、1、2分歩くとそこからは[highlight]「悲しみの道」[/highlight]、すなわちイエスが十字架を背負ってゴルゴダの丘まで歩いた道が始まります。以下、「悲しみの道」について、一部Wikipediaより抜粋。

イエスの処刑からおよそ二千年後の現在の地理上では、ヴィア・ドロローサの始発点はエルサレム旧市街北東のイスラム教地区にあるライオン門付近、終着点は旧市街北西のキリスト教地区の聖墳墓教会内にあるイエスの墓に相当する。その間、始発点と終着点を含めた計十四箇所に留(りゅう)と呼ばれる中継点が設けられており、第9留までが旧市街の入り組んだ路地の途中に、残りの五つが聖墳墓教会の内にある。(Wikipedia:ヴィア・ドロローサより)

順を追ってこの「留」について説明していきます。文章は主にWikipediaを元に適宜加筆していきます。

「第1留 ピラトに裁かれる」

The place where Jesus was judged and sentenced to crucifixion by Pilate, the admiral of the time. By the way, Pilate’s house is used as a school now. We couldn’t enter inside. The time was not good, or the date was not good? So I took a picture of the road in front of the house. It’s not easy to see, but it’s on the left side of the photo above.

「第2留 有罪に定められ、鞭で打たれる」

It is here that Jesus is made to bear the cross. Today, there are the Church of the Flogging and the Church of the Conviction on this spot. Both of them were built during the Crusades. The photo shows the Church of the Conviction.

You can see the scenery of the streets around here. There are still few souvenir shops around here.

「第3留 最初に倒れた場所」

ピラト邸から200m程度進み左に折れる道で、イエスは最初に十字架の重みで躓いてしまった、その場所が第3留です。このあたりの一角はアルメニア使徒教会が管理しているとのことです。

「第4留 悲しむ母マリアと出会う」

It is located near the 3rd distillery, also on the grounds managed by the Armenian Apostolic Church. It is said to be the place where Jesus and Mary, walking with the cross on their backs, encountered each other. A church is standing there now. There was also a cafe.

We start to walk towards the next tome. There are many people and many shops around here. It is a lively place.

「第5留 キレネ人シモンがイエスを助ける」

This tome is located at the point where the road of sorrow just turns right. It is said to be a memorial to Simon, who carried the cross instead of Jesus. There was a small chapel inside. There were so many people inside that it was hard to take pictures, so I took pictures only from outside.

「第6留 ベロニカがイエスの顔を拭く」

By the way, this “veil” is kept in St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican.

ベロニカはイエスの顔を拭うために布を持って家から出てきたのだが、このとき用いた布にイエスの顔が浮かび上がり、「ベロニカのベール」として後世に語り継がれることになった。(Wikipedia:ヴィア・ドロローサより)

「第7留 二度目に倒れた場所」

As the name suggests, this is the place where Jesus fell again under the weight of the cross. From this area, you will enter the center of the souk (market) of the Arabian Quarter, which is an area with many shops lined up in dark and narrow alleys. The area is very crowded.

「第8留 イエスがエルサレムの婦人たちに語りかける」

When Jesus told the women of Jerusalem

「エルサレムの娘たち、わたしのために泣くな。むしろ、自分と自分の子供たちのために泣け。人々が、『子を産めない女、産んだことのない胎、乳を飲ませたことがない乳房は幸いだ』という日が来る。」

It is said to be the place where he spoke to the

By the way, this tome and the next one were located a little off the street of Via Dolorosa. It seems that the location has been altered many times before.

「第9留 三度目に倒れた場所」

This place was also on a side street from the souk on the main street of Via Dolorosa, but it was further off than the 8th distillery. And actually, it seems to be a distillery that is not written in the Gospels. I see. After checking again, I found out that we could enter the attic of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre from this place. Hmm, too bad.

By the way, when I visited here, there were not so many people, and there were IS-related banners on the wall, so I decided not to stay here for a long time by myself, took some photos quickly, and went back to the souk. There was something that looked like a church at the back, but it was so deserted and there were no people there that I became a bit suspicious. I’ll have to revisit it next time.

「第10留 衣服を剥ぎ取られる」

From here it becomes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. First of all, the small cathedral on the right side of the entrance is the tenth dome.

「第11留 十字架が立てられる」

From this staircase, you can go to the “Golgotha Hill” where the cross was erected, although it is a chapel inside the church. But what a pity, there is no photo of the inside of the church. Maybe I forgot to take a picture…. Anyway, I remember that there was a huge crowd. I didn’t do enough research beforehand…

However, it’s good that we climbed Golgotha Hill without knowing it.

「第12留 イエスの死」

It is said to be right next to the 11th distillery. I forgot to take a picture here too…. Too bad. I remember it was a very small area.

「第13留 十字架の下の母マリア」

The stay is just inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This location means that it is at the foot of Golgotha Hill. There is a red marble platform where it is said that Jesus’ corpse was anointed with incense, and many pilgrims knelt down to kiss it. You could say that this is the first point where you realize the “Holy Land” when you enter this church.

「第14留 イエスの墓」

ここはこの日の朝最初に訪れたところ(前回の日記)。午後に再び戻ってきた時には多くの人で行列になっていました。内部は先にも書きましたが2部屋構成となっており、最初の部屋は礼拝堂(待機する場所)で2部屋目にイエスが眠る石棺が納められている部屋です。

The above was “Via Dolorosa”. Putting it all together in this way, I felt again the weight of the history of Christianity and the weight of the history of Jerusalem. And I learned a lot. It is true that we forgot to take many pictures of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, although we visited there. You can get this kind of knowledge by reading the Bible, but by actually going there and “feeling” it, you can understand it more deeply. This is one of the important purposes of travel for me.

We had lunch near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre after walking again in Via Dolorosa. It was delicious, but I might be getting tired of it.

さて、3日目の日記はあと1回ほど続きます。

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